As with any car, regular oil and filter changes are the best ways to keep a motor vehicle in good condition.
Oil changes are pretty straightforward - we suggest changing the oil with classic cars about every 7000 miles, and that covers everything from a 1960s Riley to a 1980s Capri.
Many companies produce a Classic Car Motor Oil, a bit thicker than standard oils for extra protection. And this is one expense we tell our customers not to stint on - if you're only changing the oil once every year or two, why not go for one of the best quality oils rather than a cheap brand? We whole-heartedly recommend using a well-known brand such as Castrol's Classic Car Oil.
To that we would add that, especially in an older car, owners should always use a good coolant, not a cheap one. The best coolants contain tried-and-tested additives to inhibit corrosion, especially important for cars which aren't driven as often as everyday run-arounds. We recommend Prestone, whose products have stood the test of time, and who provide first-fill to numerous premium car makers globally, but whose product really isn't much more expensive than others on the market.
Replacing old or worn spark plugs is another great way to maximise performance in an older car. Champion spark plugs were for so long the only game in town but have become a bit harder to locate these days, but don't fret between Champion and Bosch or NGK - they are all pretty much the same excellent quality.
As for fuel, and we rarely sell diesel cars, so we're talking petrol here, it's important that classic cars stick to the E5 premium stuff, as the new E10 low-ethanol petrol will quickly burn out valves. Esso, Texaco, BP - they all sell decent petrol, so stick to the premium offerings and your car will thank you for it.
A lot has been said about the necessity of putting lead replacement in the tank every time you fill up a classic car and many old hands claim lead additive is really only necessary for long journeys, when there is a danger the valve seals might actually get hot enough to suffer damage from today's unleaded petrol.
That said, our head mechanic is adamant that "it's always best to put it in." And he is absolutely not budging on that point!!
Again, the better the brand, the more research has generally gone into producing said additive, but unlike the case with oil, this is something which will be burnt away with the fuel each tank, and our seasoned mechanic recommends trying out the different (established) brands to see which one works best for your car.
Another good tip is to look after the car's interior. Those lucky enough to own a classic car with a leather interior won't regret using a good leather feed to keep the leather nice and supple.
For the extra few pounds it's well worth using a known good brand, but even Halfords' own leather treatments and polishes will suffice to keep the leather in tip-top condition.
For those tough old vinyl interiors we suggest a good vinyl soap and they don't come much better than the Auto Glym range, which carry the Royal Crest and are available from any Halford's branch.
Storing Classic Cars Over the Winter
Lots of first-time buyers of our cars ask if it's okay to drive in the rain. Whether you go out in the wet is personal preference, but we sympathise with the working man, working all week and looking forward to taking his classic car out at the weekend.
The other big question we get asked is how to look after the vehicle over the winter period, when many classic car owners won't take their vehicles out, especially if it's wet (or worse) outside.
If you do decide to err on the side of caution and keep your classic out of the wet and cold during winter, there are certainly a few precautions we would advise taking if the car is to be parked up for a while.
It's always best in winter to occasionally take it out on a nice dry day and drive around the block to prevent things sticking; a quick run locally will lubricate the car and keep everything running nicely for when you'll be using it more often.
Finally, the car should ideally be well garaged for the winter and well-ventilated to stop damp setting in, be that inside or underneath.
Check your tyres!
When spring does come back round, be sure to check the tyres for cracks if the car has been standing over the winter.
We absolutely encourage even just rolling it out of the garage and back every few weeks to keep the tyres from being sat in the same position for months at a time. Also check bulbs and that sort of thing, as long periods of inactivity in a damp garage or outside can cause them to malfunction.
Probably the best advice of all is to remember that the best way to keep an engine in its prime is to let it idle for a couple of minutes before pulling away.
Good old Haynes Manuals have always stressed that half of all engine wear occurs within the first five minutes of starting, so letting your classic warm up for a minute or two will protect it for years to come. Even today, modern cars will utter a few grunts of disgust if they're driven off cold!
Getting On the Road
Once a car reaches its fortieth birthday it no longer needs an MOT certificate by law but the majority of owners will put their classic through the standard test simply for peace of mind, and many insurance companies will give cheaper rates if a car is fully MOT'd as they can be certain the vehicle is roadworthy.
Road tax is free for classic cars but the car still needs to be registered with the DVLA, and that (gratis) certificate needs renewing every year, just like normal road tax.
Classic Car motor insurance can be cheaper than normal car insurance, partly because of the lower mileages covered (3000 miles per year is a common package) and Swinton and Churchill and the rest all offer Classic Motor Insurance, but we would recommend Adrian Flux Insurance, who specialise in lower-mileage packages.
Barn Find Or Prize-winner?
Make no mistake, an old barn find can be great for a hobby but restorations can become very expensive, and that's why it's a running joke amongst classic car enthusiasts that restoring a car is not done to make money!
For people just getting into the market we strongly suggest a very well-restored classic. You don't want to find yourself with a car someone has cut corners in making ready for sale - whether that means badly-applied filler starting to fall off or mismatched paint jobs. Worse still, cobbled engine repairs can give rise to a whole host of problems.
Some people like to restore cars for a hobby so problems like these can be seen as a challenge, but other buyers like a car with plenty of receipts and invoices to prove the work has been done, and professionally too.
